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Nokkur orð um ... hrefnukjöt

22 sep. 2005

Gísli ljósmyndari Gestgjafans kvartaði yfir skorti á umfjöllun um hrefnukjöt hér á vefnum og það reyndist rétt hjá honum, það var ekki komið inn neitt efni um hrefnukjöt. Þessum pistli er ætlað að bæta úr þeirri yfirsjón.

Reyndar er ekki ýkja langt síðan ég fór sjálf að borða hrefnukjöt aftur - ég fékk meira en nóg af því veturinn 1978-9, þegar ég var einstæð móðir í Breiðholti og hrefnukjöt var langlangódýrasti maturinn sem fékkst í búðunum. Ég gafst upp á þessu öllu saman. Að vísu er langt síðan ég varð einstæð móðir aftur, ég er semsagt farin að borða hrefnukjöt, en það verður örugglega enn nokkur bið á því að ég flytji aftur í Breiðholtið.

En sem sagt: Hrefnukjöti hættir til að verða eins og skóbætur ef það er eldað of lengi og þess vegna á að elda það sem minnst, jafnvel ekki neitt. Það er nefnilega ansi gott hrátt, skorið í litla teninga eða þunnar flísar og marinerað smástund í sojasósu, e.t.v. blandaðri hvítlauk og engifer. Svo má bera það fram með kryddleginum, eða t.d. með wasabi.

Svo er mjög gott að grilla kjötið, stutta stund við mikinn hita - annaðhvort skera það í svona 1/2 cm þykkar sneiðar og grilla við mjög góðan hita, í hálfa mínútu eða svo á hvorri hlið - eina í mesta lagi - eða hafa sneiðarnar þykkari, svona 2-2 1/2 cm, og grilla þá í 2-2 1/2 mínútur á hvorri hlið. Best er að leggja kjötið í kryddlög í svona klukkutíma áður en það er grillað.

Líka má steikja kjötið á pönnu, skera það í svona 2 cm sneiðar, þerra þær vel og steikja við háan hita í 1-2 mínútur á hvorri hlið og láta standa í nokkrar mínútur á eftir, á meðan sósan er búin til - bregða þeim svo e.t.v. aftur á pönnuna í hálfa mínútu eða svo í lokin.

Kjötið er líka tilvalið til veltisteikingar í wokpönnnu og þá er það skorið í litlar og þunnar sneiðar. E.t.v. kryddlagt, en þá þarf að láta kryddlöginn renna vel af því og jafnvel þerra það með eldhúspappír, annars steikist það ekki, heldur soðnar í pönnunni. Með þessu má steikja ýmislegt smátt skorið grænmeti og kannski núðlur, og bragðbæta með hvítlauk, engifer, sojasósu og kannski chili.

Mér er sagt að hrefnukjöt henti einstaklega vel til djúpsteikingar í fonduepotti og þá er það skorið í þunnar sneiðar eða teninga, kryddlagt, og hver djúpsteikir svo fyrir sig í svona 1 mínútu. Með þessu er gott að hafa ýmsar austurlenskar kryddsósur og ídýfur, svo og hrátt grænmeti.

Ég hef ekki prófað að heilsteikja stærri stykki en mér er sagt að það sé vel hægt. Þá er kjötið lagt í kryddlög í 1-2 sólarhringa eða lengur. Síðan er það steikt við svona 170 gráður þar til steikarhitamælir sýnir 65 gráður (meðalsteikt) - það ætti að taka rúman klukkutíma fyrir eins kílós bita, og svo er kjötið látið standa og jafna sig í 15-20 mínútur á eftir.

Auðvitað má búa til gúllas eða berja kjötið, velta því upp úr raspi og gegnsteikja eins og venjan var að gera áður fyrr. En það er ekki besta meðferðin á kjötinu, langt frá því; hrefnukjöt á að vera vel rautt í miðju.

Það er mikilvægt að lykta af kjötinu áður en það er matreitt; ef lýsislykt er af því er líka lýsisbragð (sem kemur yfirleitt af því að kæling hafi ekki verið nógu hröð eða að kjötið hafi beðið of lengi í kjötborðinu). Hins vegar er frekar auðvelt að bæta úr því. Ef tími er til er gott að leggja það í nokkra klukkutíma í ediksblandað vatn, appelsínusafa, súrmjólk eða bara mjólk. En þar sem lýsisbragðið er bara í yfirborðinu er kannski fljótlegast og einfaldast að skera bara örþunnar sneiðar utan af öllum flötum á kjötinu. Þá þarf að athuga að skola hnífinn á milli skurða og þegar kjötstykkinu er snúið, þá má ekki leggja ,,hreinan" flöt (sem búið er að skera af) á svæði á brettinu sem ,,óhreinn" flötur hefur áður snert - þá getur lýsisbragðið borist á milli.

Það er samt gott að leggja kjötið í einhvern súran lög þótt engu lýsisbragði sé til að dreifa, svona upp á bragðið. Mörgum finnst hvalkjöt eilítið sætt (svipað og folaldakjöt) og gott að vinna á móti því, nota t.d. rauðvíns- eða balsamedik, rauðvín, sojasósu - kannski líka súrmjólk eða jafnvel skyrblöndu. Alltaf er best að skera kjötið í sneiðar þvert á vöðvaþræðina og ef á að skera það mjög þunnt er best að það sé ískalt, jafnvel hálffrosið, en svo er það látið ná stofuhita áður en byrjað er að elda það. Ef á að bera það fram hrátt er hins vegar best að það sé vel kalt.

Grillað hrefnukjöt

7-800 g hrefnukjöt
4 msk ólífuolía
2 msk sojasósa
1 tsk nýmalaður pipar
1/2 tsk timjan, þurrkað

Kjötið skorið í 5-8 mm þykkar sneiðar. Olía, sojasósa, pipar og timjan þeytt saman í skál. Kjötinu velt upp úr blöndunni og látið standa við stofuhita í um 1 klst; hrært öðru hverju. Grillið hitað vel. Kjötið er svo tekið úr leginum og hann látinn renna vel af því. Sett á grillið og grillað við háan hita í 1/2-1 mínútu á hvorri hlið. Borið fram strax, e.t.v. með kryddsmjöri eða kryddolíu.

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